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Old 08-17-2006, 09:48 PM   #1
Jinkster
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"Jinkster Synchs Throttle Bodies"

Here's another "Walkthrough" of mine that some of ya'll might find helpful...again..copied and pasted from a post i did for Hayabusa.org..

**************************************

Here ya go folks...

1. You're gonna need a manometer (4 bank vacume gage) of some sort..I highly recomend Motion Pro's Mercury Stix..about $79 from Ivan and well worth it as they'll pay for themselves the first time you use them.

2. The vacume hose/manifold as supplied from the factory absolutely suxed to try an remove...like they put'em on using some sort of super adhesive...I wound up having to slice mine off with a razor knife so...for that reason?...I also recommend that you have a couple of feet of 4mm (or 5/32ths) I.D. vacume hose handy before you start...you'll see why..as follows..

Step #1: Remove your seat and raise your tank up on it's prop rod.

Step #2 "Removing the Airbox":

a. Remove the 10mm bolt (threade into the frame) from the front/center of the airbox.


b. Loosen the 2 phillipshead clamp screws (1 on each side) which clamps the rubber boots from the airbox to the throttle bodies..there's only two screws to loosen as each tightens and/or loosens BOTH boot clamps on either side...and you can run'em out good and loose...there's plenty of thread



At thios point you may gently wiggle and lift the rear of the airbox to free the rubber boots from the throttle bodies and cock the rear of the airbox to the left for better access to disconnect the following items...as applies...

There are (3) things to disconnect on the underside of the rear of the airbox...

1. "The Vacume Sensor" (by removing the screw as it appears the sensor is supposed to just slide off the tab but mine was so tight it was just as easy to remove the screw rather than risk any breakage) also...don't figure you can just unplug this as you'll need it so the engine can run properly during synching and..

2. "The Crankcase Breather Hose" (located in the center) and..finally?..

3. "The PAIR Supply Hose" on the far right side (if still so equipped as mines been removed where the orange vacume cap is)...as follows..



your airbox should now be free to remove except for one last vacume line which goes to your airbox flapper diaphram in the center underside of the airbox..just pull it free and set the airbox to the side to reveal the following...



Except For The Far Left Vacume Hose On T-Body #1

Remove all of the vacume hoses from the throttle body nipples by slicing them with a razor knife as they seemed to have some sort of super adhesive on them..then hook up your vacume monitor like so....and...

"NOTE/WARNING": WHEN USING MERCURY STICK SYNCH GAGES DO NOT REV YOUR ENGINE MUCH OVER 4-5K RPMS CAUSE IF YOU DO?...YOU RISK SUXING MERCURY INTO YOUR INTAKE SYSTEM AND YOU WILL GET TO WATCH YOUR ENGINE BLOW BEFORE YOUR VERY EYES AND YOU WON'T HAVE TIME TO EVEN THINK..."OH SHID"



There are (3) cad plated (gold) adjustment screws located between the T-Bodies easily identified by a screwhead that will accept either a flat blade or phillipshead screwdriver..be careful not to put any downward pressure as you adjust them as follows...




Then replace the airbox...re-connect all lines and sensors and final adjust your idle speed to 1,100-1,200rpms...then button'er up cause...Big Boy?....you're all done.

Enjoy and...L8R, Bill.
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Old 08-17-2006, 10:02 PM   #2
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Thanks for the write-up ...

What is the logic between re-routing the vacume system differently than stock ?
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Old 08-17-2006, 10:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordfasterr
Thanks for the write-up ...

What is the logic between re-routing the vacume system differently than stock ?
that was a "whoops"....I just edited it out.....I had come up with a 4-way x-over for CV carbed bikes....then a 1:4/2:3 cross-over manifold (which was smoother via scavenging....and it worked well however...there was not the same affect on FI'ed t-bodies as a vacume sensor is involved..which then recieves only 1/2 the vacume pulse signals.

Thanks for catching that...i meant to edit it out before i re-posted but forgot...and L8R, Bill.
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Old 08-18-2006, 02:31 PM   #4
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Carbbed bikes are pretty much the same way.. excellent write up, Bill

Thank you , sir

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Old 08-18-2006, 02:54 PM   #5
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Help me out....how does this help Fuel Injected Bikes?
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Old 08-18-2006, 06:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by envirocbr
Help me out....how does this help Fuel Injected Bikes?
help arrives....

"Fuel Injectors": Electronically meter...oddly enough?..."FUEL INTAKE"

however?..it's the...

"Butterfys": Housed withing your bikes "Throttle-Bodies" which MECHANICALLY meter..."AIR INTAKE"

and it is those mechanically controlled butterflys that require adjustment to achieve and maintain "Balanced Airflow between all four Throttle Bodies".....in such that...all four butterflys open and close in perfect unison...thereby achieving....

"Balanced Airflow".....in your FI'ed Scoot.

And as a result?...your synched throttlebody fi'ed bike will rev quicker and run smoother.

Hope that "helped" and...L8R, Bill.
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Old 08-19-2006, 08:49 AM   #7
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Yes it did......I never heard of doing that before...only to carbed bikes...

I dont have a Mercury Gauge though....I dont think I will be buying one anytime soon

Nice to know
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Old 08-19-2006, 02:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by envirocbr
Yes it did......I never heard of doing that before...only to carbed bikes...

I dont have a Mercury Gauge though....I dont think I will be buying one anytime soon

Nice to know
you can pick up a set of motionpro merc stix (just like mine) for $70...considering that the typical shop fees are about $75 to synch your bike?...the merc stix MORE than pay for themselves the first time ya use'em....also?...generally speaking?...over the ownership of my past 6 bikes or so?...I've noticed...on average...that...my past several bikes demonstrated that it's s good idea to synch a bike when Brand New....and then again at 3,000 miles (break-in) and then check and adjust as needed every 10K miles..and by 10K?...most times things are ready for a little "tweaking back in".

L8R, Bill.
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Old 01-04-2007, 02:09 PM   #9
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HELP - tried it this way, now the mixture is too rich.

Did the synch according to Jinksters tutorial (thank you very much) using Carbtune II on my 2005 Busa (Full Akro, PCIII USB, 7500 Mi -changed the plugs also, replaced with OEM standard, as the originals had a nice even brown coating)

Power - GREAT!, Smoothness - GREAT!

Fuel economy went into the pits! - It's now running WAAAYYY rich, constant smell of gasoline and I'm buring 25% more fuel (went from 42mpg commuting to 32mpg commuting). I reset the TPS, running the map from PC website (no changes)

The bodies were way out of snych, now they are all pulling within an inch or two.

Any thoughts on why the mixture has gone so rich????? Anybody?????
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Old 01-04-2007, 05:25 PM   #10
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Good writeup
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